Bouldering with the Dundee Boys

22.04.12 - 29.04.12 - Torridon and Beyond

 
Mike, Keith, Dave and I originally planned to head down to Spain this week in April to check out the world class bouldering on offer in Albarracin. Instead however (due to a lack of planning and then flight becoming too expensive) we decided to stay in the UK and go bouldering. That's where all the best bouldering is right?

The weather running up to this week away was being watched intently by all, with none of the forecasts looking promising. Monday it looked like the NW of Scotland was the driest place to head for the week; Tuesday the Peak District; Wednesday Yorkshire :) :) :) ; Thursday the NE Moray coast; and by the Sunday we left it was back to the NW. That meant we were heading up to Torridon, much to Mike's delight!

We packed up the Zafira we rented and the four of us set off up north in high spirits, though unable to see each other between the piled up bags. We stopped off along the way at the Ruthven Boulder, where it started raining...heavily! It did dry out enough for us to send some problems, with Mike and Dave doing a few 7a's and Keith and I a few easier things. I got a font 4, 5, 6a, 6a+ and 6c+ sent. The rain then continued, so after taking in the views we headed into Inverness for an Indian, where according to one local the restaurant was where high maintenance people go since the eggs are free range! Base camp for the week was eventually established in the free Torridon campsite around 23:00.

The Zafira on the sunny weekend, complete with the rain shelter (the boot)

 Throughout the week the rain/snow/hail (it's Scotland after all) continued to fall in heavy showers (hough we faired better here than the rest of the UK), resulting in only 2 wasted mornings when it was chucking it down. There was long periods of sun and combined with the quick drying rock we were able to climb everyday - particularly on the weekend was scorchio!

Skimming stones on Loch Torridon

In the Celtic Jumble we put up a fair few new problems, pottered around on a load more and went exploring for new boulders. Of the routes I can remember (and find the names of online since there are far too many boulders to identify one from another) I sent:

Morning Wall	font 4+	Sent				Torridon Celtic...
North Wall Traverse	font 5+	Sent				Torridon Celtic...
Evening Wall	font 5+	Sent				Torridon Celtic...
Hanging Arete	font 6b **	Sent				Torridon Celtic...
Black Wall	font 4+	Sent				Torridon Celtic...
Celtic Knot	font 6a **	Sent				Torridon Celtic..

    Some of the boulder problems I sent in Torridon's Celtic Jumble.

I also managed to put up two new routes - a 20 hand move traverse @ ~V3 (a bloc too far) and the 40 hand move extension @ ~V4/5 ('Dave kicked me out the tent for a girl' - aka. 3 bloc 3 stone). This took  a lot longer than it should have as I kept falling from the crux at the very end when the pump sets in!
Keith put in a good performance and eventually sent the V3.

 Keith on the start bloc of a bloc too far. The crack finish
                                   is shown.





Me going for a run at 'Dave kicked me out the tent for a girl' - aka. 3 bloc 3 stone. This covers 3 blocs and tops out above 3 stacked stones. A really worthwhile pumpy route to get on!
                                                                            





We did leave Torridon on one day and headed up to Reiff in the Woods, stopping on the way back at Ardmair Beach. Both are beautiful settings as these pictures show.

Reiff in the Woods - L to R = Stac Pollaidh, Dorie Dhubh, Cul Beag, and Meall Dearg

Reiff in the Woods - Loch Lurgainn

Ardmair Beach - perfect for an evening climb BBQ session

A 6c+ at Ardmair

Watch Your Back	font 6b+ **	Sent				Ardmair Beach
Youzyernee	font 6a+ **	Sent				Ardmair Beach
Sloping Off	font 6c+ *	Sent				Ruthven Boulder
The Descent of Man	font 4	Sent				Ruthven Boulder
The Cheeky Girls RH	font 6a **	Sent				Ruthven Boulder
Austin Powers	font 5 **	Sent				Ruthven Boulder

    Some of the boulder problems I sent that week outside Torridon.

We did only just make it back though, driving on empty ignoring the cars warning messages, to only just get through the campsite gate. A big thanks to Kris Devlin and Ian Crozier for buying us a Jerry Can of fuel when they met us on the weekend!

A brilliant week was had by everyone with good banter, good food and good company. A follow up weekend trip down to the Bowderstone in Borrowdale and St Bees in the Lakes was put on the cards. Should be a good if this trip happens!

Kirrie 16/04/12

After not being out climbing in far too long, for no other reason than not being able to find the time, I linked up with Andrew and Stephen from Glasgow wall and headed across to Kirrie Hill for some bolt clipping action. An early 06:30 start saw us arrive around 09:00 to be the first at the crag.

This was Stephen's third and Andrew's fourth respective days climbing outside, so truth be told I was a  bit apprehensive on how much the guys knew - especially since I had only bouldered indoors with them and I volunteered for the first climb! I shouldn't have been worried though, they knew their stuff and could belay just fine.

The weather was spectacular, and with Kirrie being a sun-trap we were climbing in a t-shirt all of the day. After each of us warming up leading the 5+ Mound Over Matter, we were then climbing in the 6's for the remainder of the day. Steadily we worked right across the crag and we all took turns at leading each route. Both Stephen and Andrew put in a solid performance all day and looked confident in their abilities, wondering why it has taken them a whole year before venturing outside to climb! All in all I ended up leading 9 routes (with the lads leading 8 and top-roping 1), making a very respective total of 27 routes, before we headed back all tired and smiling as a result of a great day out.

 Bon the Edge (6b+) two years ago - I forgot my camera this trip!

Personal highlights include managing to send the 6c+ Dig Deep first try to tick my 8th route of the day; especially since I got spat off the last move the on two separate occasions two years ago when I first moved to Scotland. One thing I did notice is that it seemed a lot easier this time round - I must have improved however slowly! Also seeing Andrew and Stephen gain in confidence and knowledge and manage to follow me up some harder stuff keeps the psyche high.

Dig Deep two years back. A face of disappointment!

Good company, glorious weather and loads of routes meant a stirling day out was has.
I can only apologise for my lunch (or lack of compared to your picnic hampers) lads!

Heading away for a weeks bouldering with Dave, Keith and Mike next week. Here's to hoping the weather is as good and some good climbing and banter is had!