Finally the Scottish winter climbing season is upon us. With a few weeks in November the harder stuff was in, but after a solid week of cold temperatures and good snow it's everyman territory. With that, and the St Andrews bank holiday and a few days annual leave I managed to persuade Graham and Gunda from work to meet up with his club (JMCOS) in Aviemore for the weekend.
We headed up Friday night and stayed in the SMC's Mill Cottage near Feshiebridge. My intentions for the weekend were to get on the classic Hidden Chimney II/III in Mess of Pottage Coire an t'Sneachda. Unfortunately this never happened; though nevertheless a good weekend was had climbing and walking.
First thing Saturday we left the hut and got to the Corrie Cas ski road by 8am. Good timing to kick off the first winter route of the year, however it wasn't good enough. An upturned van meant everyone had to queue at the bottom of the road until it could be moved. We eventually got to the top car park around 9am ish and set off into the bleak white yonder to Sneachda. Upon arriving via blind following the footprints in the snow, and passing various people who had turned round and were coming back, we were surprised to have difficulty locating the cliff. Visibility was down to 10m everywhere!
After a spot of lunch and the weather breaking around 11:30 we located the route on the cliff only to find 4 parties of better navigators / keen beans on the route already and a few others on routes. A fair few more were dotted along the base of the cliff looking lost!
Given conditions weren't at their best Gunda was very apprehensive about it all and wanted to head back to the car, though was convinced by Graham and I to romp up Jacobs Ladder. I set off first with the axe in hand and started up the firm ish snow to about 1/4 the way up. After hooking up a block I realised the rest of the route would be vertical swimming up pure powder, so set up a quick anchor to bring Gunda up. We then roped up and swapped gearless pitches between Graham and I. We topped out around 4ish into less than ideal conditions of strong winds, snow and darkness. Graham took a bearing and after some scary walking we located the Ski centre and walked down the ridge to safety. It was on this walk down I realised I love lots of people as seeing footprints is a real confidence booster!
On a plus note it probably was the first ascent of it this winter!
On Sunday the plan was for Graham and I to head back and do hidden chimney, though we couldn't get the car up the small ramp from the cottage in time to make the climb work with the daylight. We therefore joined Gunda and Mark on a Munro (Sgor Gaoith) with cracking views. Cloudless high pressure conditions for climbing! Ideal!
I'll be back for the route!
