An Evening at Dumby

The weather this week has been unusually tropical for Glasgow, so I was eager to get out and get something done after work despite having a slightly sprained wrist from climbing too much at the wall the previous week...I think!

Billy from the wall informed me about his climbing club - "Scottish Hillwalking and Activities Group" (SHAG?!?!) - and sent me a text saying a group were heading up to Dumbarton after work today. Unfortunately his knee was playing up so couldn't make it. I still went up and after traversing and doing a few easy solos I met three folk from the club and got going sharing their pad. Even bumped into Mike and a few others and a guy from Chorley. Good to get a bit of Northern England again!

I should mention that despite living in Glasgow a year now this was my first trip climbing there! I'd cycled past three or four times, but being in the SPDs I'd just had a nosey around. 
 
Ticklist for the evening:

Rankin's Bajin	VB 4a	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
Soixante Neuf	font 3+ *	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
Pas Mal	font 3 *	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
No.1 Route	font 3+ *	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
The Blue Meanie	font 5 ***	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
PTO	font 5 *	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
Left Edge	font 3 *	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
Fridays Fill	font 3 *	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
Friar's Mantle	font 4+ ***	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
Ungava	font 4+	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
Right Edge	font 3+	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
Warmup Wall Low Traverse	font 5	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
Hard Cheddar	font 5+ ***	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
Hard Cheddar SS	font 6a	Sent		-	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock
Gorilla	font 6b ***	Sent dnf		Y	08/Aug/12	Dumbarton Rock

The bouldering at Dumby certainly lives up to its reputation of hard climbing on super compact rock which can get you super strong or dishearten you beyond belief! Thankfully I managed to get on relatively well by my standards, and have lots left to go at. I'll definitely be back to finish of the super cool "Gorilla" which involves a big pull off one good foot over a roof, into a side-pull match then lunge to the lip on the left. I fell at the last stage of this but didn't rest long enough to give it another good going, instead jumping on too quick and getting to this same point before running out of juice. Besides the Dumby 'locals' playing their old school dance tunes wasn't the most inspiring thing ever.

On a wider note there has been some debate recently in the national press about removing the graffiti off the boulders as it is an eyesore for the town. I agree the graffiti being removed, since it is unsightly, but I also agree that some should be left due to its being pretty cool and also significant in the climbs based around it and Scottish history (i.e. the home rule boulder/poem). One thing I don't get however it can be unsightly for the town as you can't see it from anywhere, even from the castle. The only way you could would be walk around to the boulders themselves or the river bank opposite. Nobody other than climbers and local youths would venture here anyway. If it does get removed it will be interesting to see how long the rock remains graffiti free. I hope I'm being pessimistic in expecting only a few weeks.

In all I had a great evening out, made friends with a few people and will more than likely be heading out with SHAG some more in the future. Dumby will be getting a fair few more visits too!