Sunday, 21 October 2012

A Yorkshire Weekend


Gods County

Keith, James and I headed down to Yorkshire this weekend for a bit of Grit action, and to my mums delight stayed at our house. Yes mum I know I look thin but I do eat loads! As the local, despite my terrible directions I was appointed the guide for the weekend. On Saturday morning it was therefore decided that we should head to Caley crag, picking up my good old friend Toby along the way. However as we drove past roadside crag it looked damp so a quick decision to abort to Almscliff was made, which proved to be the right decision, despite the kid coming off his road bike at 40mph on the hill down! (He was alright as pretty much was his bike as we stopped to protect him with the car and get him back up).

The idea of the trip being a bouldering trip quickly fell through as we also brought the racks and were super keen for the trad. Toby and I climbed together on the upper man on routes I've never done despite it being a local crag, leaving James and Keith on the lower man. Dave, Eve and Cien rocked up but were happy bouldering all day.

It was good to be back on the grit, with Toby putting in a stirling effort on Demon Wall (HVS 5a) showing determination after being spat off the top move - as did I! I don't know how I got up the last move, though I do quite fancy going back and leading it one day. I then grunted my way up Traditional Climb (VS 4c) getting pumped due to its awkward nature. An amazing route though. We then stopped for a bit of lunch time bouldering, only to see Keith and James on Square Chimney doing interesting stuff:

Square Chimney getting Keith tied up
Toby looking stretched on the slab
I then lead Pothole Direct with its difficult start. Toby lead a really nice but green and smelly 3 star chimney. We did a few more then ended up bouldering until dusk before the 3 of us and Dave and Eve came back to mine for the mother of all feasts. Stuffed!

After the Sunday morning fry-up we headed to Brimham Rocks which for me was a pretty pottering about day trying lots of boulder problems, but not getting much and taking photos on other peoples cameras. Nothing special to report except Keith's cracking lead on an awkward VS on cracked wall and Keith's lead of Lancet Crack. I can still confirm even on second it's as difficult as the time I lead it a few years back, as is the decent! I don't have a clue how I got up it when I lead it, especially given my poor rack at the time!


Again its another weekend where everyone had a good trip. It was nice to catch up with old friends, climb new stuff, see the parents and get fed to a point where moving is a struggle! Thanks go to the parents for putting up with us all for the weekend!
Keith on Trackside Boulders, Brimham
Eve on a Brimham Jamming Crack






















Ticklist was pretty much:
Lancet CrackVS 5a **2nd O/SKeith LauderY21/Oct/12Brimham Rocks
B15, P5V0 4c Sent-21/Oct/12Brimham Rocks
B15, P6V0 5a *Sent-21/Oct/12Brimham Rocks
Flying Arete SlabV0 5a Sent O/SToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
Flying Arete Slab EliminateV2 5c *Sent O/SToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
Pigott's StrideVS 4c **2nd O/SToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
Matterhorn Arete, P7.V0 5a *Sent O/SToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
Whisky CrackHS 4b Lead O/SToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
The Zig ZagHS 4c 2nd O/SKeith Lauder-20/Oct/12Almscliff
Demon Wall SW Face - Problem 1V1 5b Sent O/SToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
Demon Wall SW Face - Problem 2V0 5c *Sent O/SToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
Demon Wall SW Face - Problem 4V0 4c Sent O/SToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
Jam PotV2 6a **Sent xToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
Pothole DirectVS 5b *Lead O/SToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
The Traditional ClimbVS 4c **Lead O/SToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
Demon WallHVS 5a ***2nd dogToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff
Long ChimneyHVD ***2nd O/SToby Knights-20/Oct/12Almscliff

1 comment:

  1. I had the same if not more trouble trying to get up square chimney as well! I think my dad has a series of pictures of me struggling about on it!

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