Return to Auchinstarry

Tonight Brian and I headed for an after work trip to Auchinstarry for a bit of trad climbing. I slinked off from work at half three to make the most of the weather and cycle back without too much traffic.

Brian was leading all night as my head for trad is still a bit all over the place still after March. It was nice to be back on the rope again and I had a really great night, as did my skin thanks to Tesco Value factor 20 suncream, which turns out to be the best midge repellant ever! Good accidental work there Tesco.Unfortunately for Brian I put it on before I left so he didn't fair too well!!!

Nevetheless Brian lead some cracking routes and has rapidly become a good solid and safe trad climber. We started on the 3* HVS Promontory Direct which is the classic of the crag, and after a few sketchy hand jams (his first ever) he was at the top crack and up and over. I followed up and enjoyed the moves, thinking it was a great lead.

We then moved round and did VS Red Lead above the water which is again an amazing route. The gear is good where you need it and it feels like proper climbing all the way across. The traverse out to the belay rock spike is interesting too... especially when you realise you left your phone in your pocket!

Some guys on Red Lead from top of Midas

Brian then lead his first E1 Midas Touch, placing a dodgy first nut but better gear above. Another great lead. We then abbed down and went up the VS Mastalgia to get back up and out by around half ten. A great evening out and great work from Brian.
I'll hopefully be back in the trad game properly soon enough!