Disaster!!!

There has been some really barmy weather recently, with temperatures here up in the high twenties! I therefore made plans to meet up with Andrew and Stephen to get some evening cragging in after work. After much debate I convinced them that instead of driving miles to Benny Beg for a bit of sport climbing, we should go to the much closer Auchinstarry Quarry and get them on their first trad climbs.

After explaining the premise of placing and retrieving gear and having a nosey around the crag (it's massive and well worth a visit) I lead Scream (S 4a) and placed lots of gear for them to get out. After both guys topping out, Andy informed me that he couldn't get my cam out! I decided to walk back down and solo up to get it....

What a mistake! I should have abbed down for it. After soloing half the route to the cam (~5m up from base of feet) I realised what he meant - though I am unclear whether it was my placement which got it well and truly over-cammed! I tried to pull on it a few times it wasn't budging so I started tugging a lot harder, determined not to loose a cam to the crag. I was brought up in Yorkshire!

One almighty tug later the cam was free, though unfortunately so was I! I had pulled so hard I had managed to turn 180 degrees and was now sliding down to the deck, cam in hand! Everything went slow and all I can remember is Andy shouting whoa! whoa! whoa! in a vein effort to slow me down, and looking up and seeing a large group of school kids getting out of a minibus for an outwards bound climbing trip. A great first sight (and lesson into teaching trad safety!) to see someone falling and hitting the deck!

Stuck cam placed where red circle is. (Photo edited from http://www.kevinwoods.co.uk/climbing/20101031auchinstarry/pics/03.htm)

Thankfully I managed to slide all the way down the crag and miss the small ledge at the bottom to only come out with a few gashes and brusies on my arms and bum, and a very bruised coccyx! Andy said it seemed so fast to him I didn't have a chance to let out my girlish wimpers I do when I try hard or when I'm scared climbing! I don't know if it was a rash decision or the heat getting to me or a combination of both, but it was a silly mistake I don't plan on repeating.

Some people would take this incident as a sign and stop, at least for the day, but I didn't and continued on to lead Higher Beginning (VDiff) and Mastaglia (VS). I now sit here writing this on many soft pillows (which will continue to be sat on at work for the forseeable few weeks!) :p

At the end of the evening Andy lead his first trad route (Access Route - Diff) which was a fine effort considering the eventful evening. I can report his gear was good, and his desire to trad climb was unhindered. I'm sure he'll be addicted to trad soon enough!

With the Alps coming up in three weeks, here is to hoping I'm all healed to get lots done unhindered.

In the Glen of Clova

06.05.12 - Glen Clova, Red Craigs Crag
I got the coach over to Dundee this morning to meet Nikki, James and Robbie for a day out trad climbing in Glen Clova. The weather wasn't particularly inspiring on the way up, passing under heavy localised rain showers. You could tell it was going to be one of those all season Scottish days out, and it was. First sun, then hail, a splattering of rain and then some snow!

Between all this the rock remained dry and we got a fair few routes done. Both pairs (James and Robbie and Nikki and I) lead Parapet Route Direct Start into Central Crack (both HS); with James and Robbie opting to take the actual route at the start, and me a harder variation - a more direct direct start if you will - as I never looked in the guide! It's not the easiest HS but an enjoyable and worthwhile route. I say it is not the easiest though this could be because I need to get back in the trad head game as I've been doing far too much bouldering recently!

James and Robbie then went on to lead, finishing up in a heavy snow storm after some rain, whilst Nikki and I did three J's chimney (vd) only just beating the aforementioned rain! This was Nikki's first trad lead, which she managed to get up no problem (with the help of grabbing a bush), and put in a fair few bits of good gear (excluding cams - we worked on that later on)!

Nikki's fist trad route - 3 J's chimney

James seconding Wandered

 

I quite fancied leading Witches Tooth (E1 5b) but the snow came down hard so a day was called. It was a pretty short day in all, though I'll definitely be back to lead this one!

Alpine Conville Course

I managed to get a place on the Alpine Conville Course this year between the 27th - 30th June down in Chamonix, building on the Scottish Conville I was on two years back. Super excited to get a place on this and learn some alpine climbing.

I planned to go down with one of my brothers, Adam, but unfortunately he was unable to get a place on the course, despite in my opinion having a better application than mine! Fortunately however James Franklin unbeknown to me had also applied and got a place on the immediate course before mine, so will have finished up as I start on it. Adam can therefore still come along, as he'll have James to climb with before me! We'll all probably all join up and get some routes done as a three as well.

The trip won't all be alpine though, as I bought a climbing guide for the Chamonix valley climbs off UKC for £3. Problem is it is in French - though it is filled with sport climbs and has route topos so is usable!

French Climbing Guide - now to learn French...

 I have two weeks booked off work so flight dependant we can stay out for a while and get a fair few things done! Fun planning ahead! Also anyone know how to do it on the cheap! :p


Here's to the start of an alpine climbing career! (and the first use of my crampons since I bought them and couldn't use as the Scottish snow melted before I had the chance!)

                                             Virgin Gear - 10cm ice screw and Grivel Airtech New Matics
                                                                              Soon to join my axes in my winter gear selection: