Tuesday, 8 May 2012

In the Glen of Clova

06.05.12 - Glen Clova, Red Craigs Crag
I got the coach over to Dundee this morning to meet Nikki, James and Robbie for a day out trad climbing in Glen Clova. The weather wasn't particularly inspiring on the way up, passing under heavy localised rain showers. You could tell it was going to be one of those all season Scottish days out, and it was. First sun, then hail, a splattering of rain and then some snow!

Between all this the rock remained dry and we got a fair few routes done. Both pairs (James and Robbie and Nikki and I) lead Parapet Route Direct Start into Central Crack (both HS); with James and Robbie opting to take the actual route at the start, and me a harder variation - a more direct direct start if you will - as I never looked in the guide! It's not the easiest HS but an enjoyable and worthwhile route. I say it is not the easiest though this could be because I need to get back in the trad head game as I've been doing far too much bouldering recently!

James and Robbie then went on to lead, finishing up in a heavy snow storm after some rain, whilst Nikki and I did three J's chimney (vd) only just beating the aforementioned rain! This was Nikki's first trad lead, which she managed to get up no problem (with the help of grabbing a bush), and put in a fair few bits of good gear (excluding cams - we worked on that later on)!
Nikki's fist trad route - 3 J's chimney


James seconding Wandered















 

I quite fancied leading Witches Tooth (E1 5b) but the snow came down hard so a day was called. It was a pretty short day in all, though I'll definitely be back to lead this one!

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