Disaster!!!

There has been some really barmy weather recently, with temperatures here up in the high twenties! I therefore made plans to meet up with Andrew and Stephen to get some evening cragging in after work. After much debate I convinced them that instead of driving miles to Benny Beg for a bit of sport climbing, we should go to the much closer Auchinstarry Quarry and get them on their first trad climbs.

After explaining the premise of placing and retrieving gear and having a nosey around the crag (it's massive and well worth a visit) I lead Scream (S 4a) and placed lots of gear for them to get out. After both guys topping out, Andy informed me that he couldn't get my cam out! I decided to walk back down and solo up to get it....

What a mistake! I should have abbed down for it. After soloing half the route to the cam (~5m up from base of feet) I realised what he meant - though I am unclear whether it was my placement which got it well and truly over-cammed! I tried to pull on it a few times it wasn't budging so I started tugging a lot harder, determined not to loose a cam to the crag. I was brought up in Yorkshire!

One almighty tug later the cam was free, though unfortunately so was I! I had pulled so hard I had managed to turn 180 degrees and was now sliding down to the deck, cam in hand! Everything went slow and all I can remember is Andy shouting whoa! whoa! whoa! in a vein effort to slow me down, and looking up and seeing a large group of school kids getting out of a minibus for an outwards bound climbing trip. A great first sight (and lesson into teaching trad safety!) to see someone falling and hitting the deck!

Stuck cam placed where red circle is. (Photo edited from http://www.kevinwoods.co.uk/climbing/20101031auchinstarry/pics/03.htm)

Thankfully I managed to slide all the way down the crag and miss the small ledge at the bottom to only come out with a few gashes and brusies on my arms and bum, and a very bruised coccyx! Andy said it seemed so fast to him I didn't have a chance to let out my girlish wimpers I do when I try hard or when I'm scared climbing! I don't know if it was a rash decision or the heat getting to me or a combination of both, but it was a silly mistake I don't plan on repeating.

Some people would take this incident as a sign and stop, at least for the day, but I didn't and continued on to lead Higher Beginning (VDiff) and Mastaglia (VS). I now sit here writing this on many soft pillows (which will continue to be sat on at work for the forseeable few weeks!) :p

At the end of the evening Andy lead his first trad route (Access Route - Diff) which was a fine effort considering the eventful evening. I can report his gear was good, and his desire to trad climb was unhindered. I'm sure he'll be addicted to trad soon enough!

With the Alps coming up in three weeks, here is to hoping I'm all healed to get lots done unhindered.